Samsung Washer Error Codes: The Common Ones
Samsung reuses a code under several spellings, and the leading 1 on some displays (1 4C, 1 5C) is the same error. If the display shows only blinking lights, Samsung says to treat it as an error only when the washer also stops working normally.
| Code | What it means | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
4C, 4E, nF, 1 4C | Not filling. Water isn't getting in correctly. | Both valves wide open; hoses on the right inlets and unkinked. Samsung warns that a missing hot line throws this code even on cycles labeled Cold. Then cut power for 1 minute and look for debris in the hose connections. |
4C2, 4E2, CE, 14C2, nF1 | Hot/cold error: the cold supply is running extremely hot | The supply hoses are crossed. Match blue to blue and red to red. Samsung says this code does not mean service is needed. |
nd, 5C, 5E, SC, SE, 1 5C | No drain, or draining too slowly | Clean the drain filter and straighten the drain hose. Samsung wants the hose 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe, no less and no more. |
UE, Ub, U6, 1 Ub, 1U6 | Unbalanced load; the cycle won't finish | Untangle the laundry, spread it around the drum and press Start again. If it repeats with normal loads, check that the washer sits firm on all four feet and, on a new front-loader, that the shipping bolts are out. |
Ur | Unbalanced load retry, shown while the washer rebalances | Nothing to fix. The washer is retrying the spin on its own; let it finish. |
dE, dE1, dE2, dC1, dL, dS, FL, LO | The door is not detected as closed and locked | Look for a sock caught at the seal, then shut the door firmly. A cracked latch or door is a service call. |
dC | Door error on some models, unbalanced load on others | Your manual decides which. Read the model number off the label before blaming the latch. |
LE, LC, 1E, 1C, LC1 | Leak detected, or a water level error | Check under and behind the washer for a slow leak. Run an empty cycle with no detergent; suds mean too much or non-HE soap. |
OE, 0E, OC, 0C, 1 OC | Overflow: too much water in the tub | Follow Samsung's overflow guide. If the code keeps returning, a fill valve that won't shut off is one possible cause for the technician to test. |
9C1, 9C2, PF, 2E, 9E1, 9E2, UC | Voltage or power supply irregularity | Plug straight into a dedicated circuit, no extension cord. If a code shows up after a storm outage, restart once; if it repeats, have the circuit checked. |
Sources: Samsung: Washing machine information and error codes · Samsung: Washer shaking or moving
Less Common Samsung Washer Codes, Including the Harmless Ones
For any code without its own troubleshooting, Samsung's instruction is the same: power the washer off for 2 to 3 minutes, and request service if the code returns. The first six rows below aren't faults at all.
| Code | What it means | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
SUd, Sd, 5Ud, SUdS | Too many suds | Cut back on detergent and use HE formula. |
Cb, C6 | Calibration mode | Runs 1 to 3 minutes and ends. It only calibrates correctly with an empty drum. |
dn | Downloading a software update | Leave it powered on for about 15 minutes. Past 30 minutes with working Wi-Fi, request service. |
CL | Child Lock drained the tub after the door was opened | Turn the washer off and on, or switch Child Lock off. |
SDC, 5DC | Detergent drawer not fully closed | Push the drawer in until it clicks. |
ddC, dC3 | Add Door (the small door-in-door) not latched | Close the Add Door firmly and check for clothing in the latch. |
E2, bE2, 6E2 | A control panel button reads as stuck | With power off, press and wiggle each button. Damaged buttons need service. |
3E, 3C, E3, 1 3C | Motor error (a voltage error on some models) | 2 to 3 minute power reset, then service. The manual says which meaning your model uses. |
HE, HC, HE1, Hr | Heater error | Power reset, then service |
tE, tE1, tC | Temperature sensor error | Power reset, then service |
PE, PC; PE1, PC1 | Clutch position error; clutch hall signal error (top-loaders) | Power reset, then service |
AE, AC and variants | Communication error between boards | Power reset, then service |
8E, BE, 8C, BC | MEMS or vibration sensor error | Power reset, then service |
bE, 6E | Motor speed sensor error | Power reset, then service |
Sources: Samsung: Washing machine information and error codes
LG Front-Load Washer Codes
Older LG models show an E-number, given here in brackets. Watch LE: on an LG it's a motor code, which is the opposite of what a Samsung owner would expect.
| Code | What it means | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
IE (E02, E10) | Inlet error: the tub didn't fill in time | Faucet open, hose not bent, inlet screen clear of grit |
OE (E03, E21) | Drain failure | Clean the drain pump filter; check the hose for kinks and the drum for heavy suds |
UE | Load out of balance | Level the machine and fill the drum to roughly two-thirds |
dE, dE1 (E01) | Door isn't shut properly | Open and close it again; service if the code persists |
dE2 (E30) | Door shut but the lock never engaged | Clothing trapped in the gasket, then the latch itself |
LE | Tub won't spin because the motor is strained | Unplug for 5 minutes, lighten the load, fish out coins or other objects |
CE | Motor over-current | Unplug, try again; service if it recurs |
tE | Heating error, typically the thermistor | Reset once, then service |
PE | Water level sensor fault | Service if it keeps appearing |
FE (E04, E12) | Overfilled | Look for water entering through the dispenser, then service |
dHE | Temporary dry-function fault on washer-dryer combos | Reset, then service |
CL, tCL, SUD, PF | Child lock on; Tub Clean due; too many suds; power cut mid-cycle | Not faults. Hold child lock 3 seconds, run Tub Clean, use less detergent, or restart. |
Whirlpool and Maytag Washer Codes, Front and Top Load
Whirlpool Corporation owns Maytag, and Maytag publishes a matching top-load code page. Front-loaders use the F-and-E format; top-load HE machines show short words. For warranty and service details, see Whirlpool appliance repair and Maytag appliance repair.
| Code | What it means | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
F8 E1, Lo FL, LF | Taking too long to fill | Both hot and cold must be connected and on; clean the hose inlet screens |
F9 E1, drn | Slow or failed drain | Drain hose no deeper than 4.5 inches into the standpipe, with the standpipe opening left uncovered; clean the pump filter on front-loaders |
F5 E2 | Front-load door not locking | Close it firmly, check for items, cycle the power |
rL | Items found in the drum during Clean Washer | Empty the drum and restart the cleaning cycle |
LdL, LdU, lid | Lid won't lock; lid can't unlock; lid left open (top-load) | Take anything off the lid and shut it fully |
Ofb, OL | Balancing in progress; load too large | Let it correct, or remove some items |
Sud | Too many suds | Use less HE detergent |
HC | Hot and cold hoses reversed | Swap them at the washer |
PF | Power failure | Start the cycle again |
Sources: Whirlpool: F8 E1 · Whirlpool: F9 E1 · Whirlpool: F5 E2 · Whirlpool: rL · Whirlpool: Top load HE codes · Maytag: Top load washer codes
Samsung and LG Refrigerator Codes
Most of these point to a fan, a sensor or the defrost system, and both makers route them to service. Samsung gives self-help steps for the fan codes (21E, 22E), the compressor voltage codes and the demo-mode display. LG notes that frost on the fan is a common reason for its FF code. The refrigerator repair guide covers the parts behind these codes.
| Code | What it means | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
Samsung 5E | Fresh-food defrost sensor | Leave the code on the display for the tech |
Samsung 8E, 14E | Ice maker sensor | Leave the code on the display for the tech |
Samsung 21E | Freezer fan | Frequently ice on the fan, a door left ajar or a gasket gap |
Samsung 22E, 22C | Fresh-food fan | Samsung suggests unplugging with the doors open for a few hours to thaw it |
Samsung 33E, 39E, 39C, 40E, 40C | Ice pipe heater; ice maker function; ice room fan | Service |
Samsung 83E, 85E, 86E | Compressor current, under-voltage or over-voltage | Often a surge or brownout. Cut power for 60 seconds. |
Samsung 84C | Locked compressor | Service. Check the sealed-system warranty first. |
Samsung OF OF, O FF | Cooling Off demo mode; nothing is broken | Usually: hold the top two left-panel buttons 5 to 8 seconds until it chimes. Varies by model. |
LG IF, FF, CF, rF | Ice maker fan, freezer fan, condenser fan, fridge fan | Request service. For FF, LG suggests unplugging with the doors open for 24 hours. |
LG dH (FdH, dHF) | Defrost sensor failed to warm more than 5 °C within 80 minutes | Request service; the evaporator may be iced over |
LG rS, FS, dS | Fridge, freezer or defrost sensor fault | Request service |
LG CO | Main board and display not communicating | Request service |
Sources: Samsung: Refrigerator error codes · LG: Refrigerator error codes · LG: Er FF help
Samsung Dryer Codes
Samsung's first step for its heat and temperature codes is the same as for the vent test codes: clean the lint screen, the vent run, or both.
| Code | What it means | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
tE, tC, tS, tO | Temperature reading out of range | Lint screen and the full vent run to the outside |
hE, HC | Heating fault | Same airflow checks first, then service |
C8, C80, C9, C90, Clg, Cg | Result of the vent blockage test | Clear the lint filter and the exhaust duct |
dC, dE, dF, do, d0 | Door switch | Shut the door firmly and inspect the latch |
9C1, 9E, 2E | Supply voltage | Dedicated circuit, no extension cord |
FC, FE | Power frequency | Restart; service if it repeats |
Sources: Samsung: Dryer error codes
Samsung and Frigidaire Dishwasher Codes
Samsung and Frigidaire both publish their dishwasher codes. For the drain pumps, filters and heaters behind them, see the dishwasher repair page.
| Code | What it means | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
Samsung 4C, 4E | No water supply | Supply valve under the sink and the inlet hose |
Samsung 5C, 5E, SC, SE | Drain problem | Filter and drain hose |
Samsung LC, LE | Moisture detected in the base | Look underneath for a leak; service if it stays |
Samsung OC, 0C, oE | Too much water | Service if it repeats |
Samsung HE, HC | Temperature misread; internal temperature too high | Reset, then service |
Samsung 3E | Incoming water too hot | Keep the supply below 176 °F |
Samsung 1E, IE | Fine filter clogged (Waterwall) or heater (Rotary) | Clean the filter first |
Frigidaire i20 | Didn't drain completely | Disposer knockout plug removed, drain hose rising to at least 32 inches and not pinched, filter and sump clear |
Frigidaire i40 | Filter or sump clogged | Clean the filter and glass trap |
Frigidaire CL, Cd; Hd, HO; PF | Door open; heat delay; power lost | Close the door, wait out the heat delay, or restart |
Sources: Samsung: Dishwasher error codes · Frigidaire: Dishwasher error code guide
GE and Frigidaire Range and Oven Codes
GE advises calling a trained technician whenever a fault code shows on a range or wall oven. Warranty and service details are on the GE and Frigidaire repair pages.
| Code | What it means | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
GE F2, F20 | Oven went past its temperature limit | Breaker off a minute or two, then service |
GE F3, F4 | Oven sensor | Service |
GE F0, F1, F6, F7 | Keypanel | Breaker reset, then service |
GE F5, F8, FF | Electronic control | Service |
GE F9, FC | Door lock circuit | Service |
GE FD | Meat probe or its socket | Service. Note whether the probe was in use when the code appeared. |
Frigidaire F10 | Thermal runaway: running hotter than normal | Unplug 30 seconds or kill the breaker; service if it returns |
Frigidaire F1 | Shorted keypad | Service |
Frigidaire F3, F20, F26 | Boards not communicating | Power reset, then service |
Frigidaire F30, F31 | Probe open or shorted | Power reset, then service if it returns |
Frigidaire F40, F41; F90 to F94 | Cooktop lockout; door lock | Power reset, then service |
Sources: GE Appliances: Range and wall oven fault codes · Frigidaire: Ranges error code guide
When the Code Points to a Part
A code narrows the search; the tech still tests the part behind it. These pages cover the repairs the codes above most often lead to.
- Washer repair in HoustonDrain pumps, door locks, inlet valves and bearings behind the fill, drain and spin codes.
- Samsung appliance repairWarranty terms and service steps for Samsung washers, dryers and refrigerators.
- LG appliance repairWhat LG covers on drum motors and compressors, and how to book warranty service.
- Dryer not heatingThermal fuses, heating elements and the vent problems behind temperature codes.
- Oven and range repairSensors, igniters and control boards behind F-codes on GE and Frigidaire ranges.
Error Code Questions
How do I reset a Samsung washer error code?
Turn the washer off, unplug it or flip its breaker, wait, then restore power and start a cycle. Samsung says 1 minute for a fill error and 2 to 3 minutes for codes without specific steps. Fix the cause first, such as a kinked hose or a clogged drain filter, or the same code will return.
Is it safe to keep using a washer that shows a code?
It depends on the code. Suds, calibration, Ur and download messages are normal operation. A leak code (LE or LC on a Samsung) deserves a look before the next load, because water under a washer can damage the floor. Heater, motor and sensor codes that return after a reset mean it's time to stop and book a repair.
Why did my washer show PF after the power came back?
On LG and Whirlpool washers, PF records that power was lost during the cycle; Samsung lists PF with its voltage errors. After a Houston storm outage or a tripped breaker, restart the cycle once. If PF keeps appearing without an outage, have the outlet and circuit checked, and keep the washer off extension cords.
My code is not on this page. What now?
Search your exact model number on the maker's support site, because codes differ even within one brand. Samsung's general advice for unlisted washer codes is a 2 to 3 minute power reset, then service if the code comes back. Write the code down exactly, including any leading 1 or letter case.
Does the same code mean the same thing on every brand?
No, and a few overlap in confusing ways. LE is a leak or water level code on a Samsung washer but a strained-motor code on an LG. dC is a door code on some Samsung models and an unbalanced load on others. Always read the code against your own brand and model number.